Hiking down into the Grand Canyon has always been on my bucket list, so we applied for our permits here in advance of arriving. My research taught me that if we wanted to get away from the crowds, we should minimize our time along the main corridor (Bright Angel, South Kaibob, and North Kaibob trails). However, I was nervous about the climb out of the canyon, so figured we should take the Bright Angel main corridor trail. Our overall desired itinerary was starting at the Hermits Rest trailhead down to Monument Creek campground, then continuing north along the Tonto Trail to Salt Creek campground and then ending at Indian Garden campground before hiking out to the Bright Angel trailhead. Fortunately, we received permits for this itinerary!
The drive from Scottsdale to the Grand Canyon was about 4 hours. We arrived mid-afternoon the day before our backpacking trip started in order to stop in the backpacking office to check trail conditions and prepare for our 3 nights in the canyon. The rangers were not very helpful here. Based on our experience at other national parks, we knew what kinds of questions to ask, which was good because they offered no unsolicited advice. The most we learned was that we should purchase a ratsack (chainmail rodent-proof bag), which we purchased at the South Rim market ($40 for the medium size). When we asked about water, the rangers told us it was available at Monument Creek and at Indian Garden. We had to further ask how we needed to treat it (turns out you can use filters or chemical treatments, whatever your preference). Ultimately, we were comfortable with our backpacking experience and felt prepared heading into the canyon.
After speaking with the rangers, we headed to our pre-booked campsite (#282 on the Pine Loop) at the Mather campground (South Rim). The campground was full, so I’m glad we had booked this in advance. We cooked dinner and gathered our backpacking supplies before heading to bed. The plan for the next morning was to get up around 5:30 am and be prepared to start hiking down the canyon at sunrise (around 7:15 am). Multiple people (friends, rangers) had warned us that we should avoid hiking in the hottest part of the day (between 10 am and 4 pm) if possible. However, it was cold (20 degrees cold) when the alarm went off, and we couldn’t get ourselves out of the tent before 6 am. By the time we packed up camp, packed our bags, drove to the Bright Angel trailhead and took the red shuttle to the Hermits Rest trailhead (last stop), it was almost 9 am. Oh well!
The hike down into the canyon was not an easy one. The hike starts at the Hermits Rest trailhead and is about 7 miles and 3,660 ft of elevation loss to the junction. At the junction, you can head south (left) towards the Hermit Creek campground or north (right) to the Monument Creek campground. We headed north another 2 miles (limited elevation change) to Monument Creek campground. In total, we hiked 9 miles in about 5 hours and 15 minutes. We did stop along the way in some of the limited shade to eat lunch and to take a few 5-minute breaks. By the time we reached the campground at 2:30, we were exhausted. I would not want to hike out of the canyon on the Hermits trail. There were two other groups that had already arrived and set up camp, and it looked like that was going to be all of us for the night! The campsite area has a good amount of trees/shade and there is a nice pit toilet in a small building. We picked a minimally covered, higher camp spot so as to avoid rodent territory (as much as possible). Others had warned us that the rodents are brazen and will attempt to get food even if you are standing there. We didn’t want to set up beneath a lot of trees and underbrush for fear that the rodents would swarm us once the sun went down (not sure if that would have happened or not). As long as we cooked during the daylight hours, the rodents didn’t seem to bother us. In addition, we hung our ratsack from a small tree, stored our bags up on the rocks with all pockets/zippers open to avoid rodents chewing through to investigation anything in the bags, and brought our water bags/bottles into the tent at night (one fellow backpacker told us that the rodents had chewed her bit valve on her camelback). By following these simple protocols, we had no rodent issues. Dinner was an Alpine Aire Santa Fe Rice & Beans and Mountain House Beef Stroganoff. This time, we brought along a lime, salt, and pepper to add to the Alpine Aire – it made all the difference! Much tastier this time around. We also brought along a couple desserts; tonight, we ate a Mountain House Raspberry Crumble. It was a nice treat, but we probably wouldn’t get it again. As soon as the sun began to set, we hurried into the tent to avoid eye contact with the rodents. Nothing better than sleeping with the fly off and enjoying the beautiful starry sky!
The next morning, we got up around 7 am – the other two groups at the campsite were up and out by 6 am because they were hiking out on Hermits trail (yikes!). The Tonto trail provides very limited shade, so we didn’t want to hike to the next campsite (only 3.5 miles) during the middle of the day. Instead, based on suggestions from other backpackers, we did a short side trip down to the Granite Falls along the Colorado River. It was a 1.3-mile, 500-foot hike from the Monument Creek campground. We left all of our gear at Monument Creek and only took water and lunch down to the Colorado River. Overall, the hike took about 45 minutes each way. There is a nice sandy beach area along the river where you can take a dip. We did so before making tuna wraps for lunch. While we were relaxing on the beach, a herd of 5 bighorn sheep wandered near the beach area! It was fun to watch them climb some of the small, surrounding cliffs. We made it back to the Monument Creek campsite around 2 pm. We waited out the hot part of the day at the campsite until around 4 pm before we started our hike to the Salt Creek campsite. In the meantime, a group of backpackers had joined us at the campground. There were 11 of them (maximum group size), and the leader/organizer of the group was in the canyon for his 17th year! We chatted with a few of the group members and they were all very nice! We were supposed to have the Salt Creek campsite to ourselves for the night (only one permit issued for the site), but two of the group members asked if they could join us there so that they could reduce their total hiking distance the next day (they were also headed to Indian Garden). Patrick and I were happy to have them join us, although I’m sure it would have been nice to be at a site alone in the canyon! The hike to Salt Creek took us about 1 hour and 40 minutes. There is a short, steep climb immediately upon leaving Monument Creek, but the rest of the trail is relatively flat. As soon as we arrived at the campsite, we cooked dinner (to avoid eating in the dark because rodents) – Alpine Aire Kung Pao Chicken (surprisingly tasty!) and Mountain House Mac & Cheese (also tasty). The Salt Creek campsite does have a pit toilet as well, although not nearly as nice as that at Monument Creek (and Indian Garden). Another beautiful, starry night.
The next morning, we got up early to complete our 7.3-mile hike from Salt Creek to Indian Garden in the early morning. We started our hike shortly after sunrise, taking about 3 hours to make it to Indian Garden. Around 10:15, we were picking out a campsite at Indian Garden and setting up camp. We weren’t used to having so much free time during a day of backpacking – there was even time for a short afternoon nap! The Indian Garden campground is the fanciest backcountry campground we have seen. There are covered picnic tables at each campsite and ammo boxes (protect from rodents)! The area around Indian Garden feels like an oasis in the middle of a desert canyon; there is a stream running through, with many large, green trees. The campground also provides tap water (no need for treatment). Needless to say, we had a very relaxing afternoon. Dinner was Backpacker’s Pantry Chana Masala and Mountain House Chili Mac and Beef, followed by a Backpacker’s Pantry Crème Brulee dessert (would buy this again!). Off to bed early again as we had another early morning hike, this time out of the canyon.
The Bright Angel trail is very well maintained and has a relatively consistent slope. Both Patrick and I found the hike out much easier that we expected. From the Indian Garden campground, it is about a 4.5-mile, 3,000-foot climb. We left a little after sunrise and were one of the last groups to leave the campground. The 3-mile and 1.5-mile rest stops acted as good checkpoints for our progress. It only took us about 2 hours and 15 minutes to climb out of the canyon, getting back to our car around 10 am. Since we hadn’t anticipated being out of the canyon so early, we decided to head towards Zion a day early instead of staying at the Mather campground that night.
